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 WHAT'S NEW :: Amanda Gold, Tara Duggan, Olivia Wu, Karola Saekel Wednesday, October 25, 2006 :: San Francisco Chronicle Long-awaited projects from several well-known Bay Area chefs have come to fruition within the last few days, with restaurant openings in San Francisco and along the coast. Perbacco: San Francisco's historic Gold Coast restaurant, with a new name loosely meaning "wow" in Italian, reopened in the Financial District yesterday, a project from chef Staffan Terje and Umberto Gibin. Designer Cass Calder Smith has given the restaurant in the 1912 Hind Building a modern face-lift. The cuisine: The menu focuses on Italy's Piedmont region, with other northern Italian influences. The fritto misto includes lightly battered rock shrimp and juicy-hot green olives. Pasta, including a butternut squash lune tossed in brown butter and nutty Castelmagno cheese, comes in a half or full order. On the main course list, look for quail with roasted grapes. The team: Gibin, who hails from Italy, previously worked at Poggio in Sausalito. Terje headed up the Italian kitchen at Scala's Bistro on Union Square for eight years. The vibe: Linear light fixtures and mirrors accentuate the sharp angles of the rectangular space. Elevated booths flank the Carrera marble-topped bar, and a larger dining room and mezzanine face the open kitchen. Perbacco, 230 California St. (near Front Street), San Francisco; (415) 955-0663. Dinner Monday-Saturday; weekday lunch begins soon. Reservations and credit cards accepted. Starters, $6-$30 (for large salumi plate); pastas, $8-$19; entrees, $18-$29; desserts, $5-$8. -- Tara Duggan Return to Overview
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